When done properly, as it is in this recipe, there is nothing as sensuously delicious as classic Lobster Bisque. Silky smooth, generously studded with nubbins of the crown jewel of crustaceans, a gleaming tureen filled with piping hot lobster bisque is the ultimate in luxury dining. Today it seems that never was a more enthralling ocean liner sinking than the maiden voyage of … [Read more...]
CLASSIC SHAD ROE WITH BACON
Who remembers Cole Porter's classic Let's Fall in Love? The one that starts "Birds do it, bees do it, even educated fleas do it... " And somewhere around verse three it goes "Why ask if shad do it? Waiter bring me shad roe!" Plenty more peeps have heard the song than enjoyed a plate of shad roe, so herewith is a recipe for Classic Shad … [Read more...]
SOFT SHELL CRAB SANDWICHES
Soft Shell Crabs -- ah, spring is here. What could be better than a Simply Spectacularly Delicious recipe for fried soft shelled crab sandwiches? Not many things I daresay. The first softies of the season are smaller than the behemoths that show up later in the season. These babies in the East Hampton fish market were so fresh they practically winked at me before their … [Read more...]
CARROT JOHNNYCAKES WITH SHRIMP FLORENTINE
Johnnycakes are traditionally made with cornmeal. But no cornmeal here; these non-traditional beauties come from a smooth purée of carrots giving them their bold orange color. Too thick to be a crêpe (even though they started life from a Jacques Pépin crêpe recipe) and too special to be a pancake, Johnnycakes they shall … [Read more...]
ROASTED KERRY SALMON WITH PRAWNS
Corned beef is nice and all, especially served steaming hot with slippery cabbage and soft potatoes and carrots, a smear of sharp Colman's mustard to cut the fat. That said, Ireland's patron saint deserves to be celebrated with something finer. St. Patrick drove out the snakes! He spoke Latin! His feast day is a holy day of obligation in the old country and a day of parades and … [Read more...]
TASMANIAN SEA TROUT MARLENE DIETRICH: SOUS VIDE RECIPE
"I like boiled fish...almost any fish tastes wonderful when properly boiled...the fish must never boil." So sayeth Marlene Dietrich in her book ABC, first published in 1961. Like the lady herself, her culinary advice is mysteriously elusive. And as good a jumping off point as any for the inscrutable world of sous vide cooking with this recipe for … [Read more...]
BRANZINO MARCO POLO
Somewhere along the line everyone agreed on some sweeping generalizations about recipe monikers. If it's "Florentine" expect spinach in there somewhere; "à la Grecque" gets you olive oil, lemon, oregano and probably olives. "Hawaiian" and "Polynesian" are the big yellow warning signs for … [Read more...]
CLAM QUESADILLAS: QUESADILLAS DE ALMEJAS
Clam Quesadillas (or quesadiilas de almejas if you prefer) are a pleasant detour down a road less taken for those bound for quesadillaville. My brother Brendan suggested we try our hand at clam quesadillas for our much heralded Mexican Thanksgiving. I immediately took to the idea; they knocked tortilla soup off the menu (surprisingly deemed … [Read more...]
KELLY LESTER’S VICTORIOUS COQUILLES ST. JACQUES
Here's a delicacy ripped straight from the headlines: The East Hampton Star just proclaimed "Lesters Found Not Guilty." In celebration we high-tailed it over to their roadside stand for a pound of just harvested, sweet bay scallops. Hence this sumptuous recipe for Coquilles St. Jacques created in Kelly Lester's honor. In yet another blow for … [Read more...]
BRANDADE DE MORUE
Poking around the fish case in the North Main St. IGA, I found this cute little box of salt cod and experienced a near-Pavlovian reaction. When was the last time I had a nice garlicky brandade or baccala or any of its cousins? I do remember my first at the old Provence restaurant on Sullivan St. in Soho. But the last time? Can't think of it. So with the … [Read more...]