Culinary purists and in-the-know gourmands maintain that the popular dish Pasta Primavera isn’t an “authentic” Italian recipe. Quotations because when all is said and done, what really constitutes authenticity? Pasta Primavera was birthed in this country by the esteemed Italian food authority and cookbook author Ed Giobbi. He’s Italian. He’s an expert. His recipe is prepared in the same venerable manner of the finest Italian pastas. Authentic enough for me.
But the confusion is understandable. Inauthenticity comes into play as the recipe morphs through countless variations, revisions and improvements.
Here’s the story. Giobbi would (and does) delight family and guests with pasta dishes he’d learned in Florence and Rome and along the Adriatic coasts. These friends included the guys from Le Cirque, Sirio Macchioni and John Vernges. Way back in 1973 Ed prepared his Pasta Primavera for them with the season’s first vine-ripened tomatoes and fresh basil. They put it on the menu at Le Cirque. The New York Times raved. The restaurant was mobbed and the recipe and its adaptations spread like wildfire across America.
So here, now, is the the one holy and true authentic Pasta Primavera recipe from Ed Giobbi’s Eat Right, Eat Well – The Italian Way. No cream. No cheese. No pine nuts. No problems — and nothing better.
Following that is our own riff on Ed’s pure vision. While this Spectacularly Delicious Pasta Primavera is not “authentic,” it is very, very good. It’s certainly miles ahead of the more common crunchy-broccoli-cream sauce versions you’ll find.
AUTHENTIC PASTA PRIMAVERA
Ed Giobbi Recipe
1 lb. spaghettini, imported if possible
4 c. chopped garden-ripe tomatoes, at room temperature
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 T. superior olive oil
1 T. safflower oil
2 T. slivered fresh basil
2 T. chopped Italian parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
Boil pasta in rapidly boiling water. In the meantime, place the rest of the ingredients in a food processor or food mill and puree.
When the pasta is cooked al dente drain well by shaking the pasta in a colander so that all the water drains off. Toss with the raw tomato sauce and serve immediately.
Notice there’s no cheese. It’s not needed either, this is perfection just as is!
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PASTA PRIMAVERA – SPECTACULARLY DELICIOUS RECIPE
1 lb. imported angel hair pasta
1/2 c. fresh peas, shelled
1/4 c. sliced baby carrots
1 small bunch asparagus
1 yellow summer squash, thinly sliced longways
2 pints cherry tomatoes, a variety of red and yellow is possible
1 bunch arugula, washed and dried
1 c. fresh basil leaves, chopped
3 cloves garlic, minced
3 T. olive oil
2 T. butter
s&p
Parmesan cheese
Peel the asparagus and cut off the tips into 3″ lengths. Cut the peeled stalks into 1″ lengths. Keep separate.
Cut 1 pint of the tomatoes into halves. Leave the remaining pint whole.
Fill a large pot with water and bring to a boil. Fill a large bowl with ice water. Using a slotted spoon or sieve blanch the peas, carrots and aspargus stems in batches, about 4 minutes each. Blanche the asparagus tips 3 minutes. The thin slices of squash take only 1 minute. Removing them to the ice water immediately to arrest cooking and preserve color.
Drain well and reserve.
In a large saute pan cook the minced garlic in the 3 T. olive oil over medium heat until softened, about 1 minute. Add the 1 pint of whole cherry tomatoes, toss to coat with oil, and continue to cook over medium heat, tossing them gently, until they soften and burst. Add the reserved peas, carrots, asparagus spears and squash and heat through. (Save the asparagus spears for serving.)
Bring a large pot of water to a boil (okay to use the blanching water) and cook the angel hair pasta according to package directions. Drain well and pour into a large bowl. Toss with the butter and arugula while the pasta is still very hot. The heat will cook the arugula. Add the cooked vegetables and the sliced, uncooked tomatoes and toss again. Add a generous amount of grated Parmesan cheese, add salt and pepper, toss again and put into serving dish.
Do something pretty with the aspargus tips. Serve with more more grated Parmesan.
