A nicely turned out Osso Buco is about as Simply Spectacularly Delicious (SSD) a recipe as one can have in one's repertoire. By virtue of there being only two sides of the cut of veal that need browning, it's arguable that this is the easiest braised-meat dish around. When you consider the searing and turning and multiple batches required for a blanquette de veau or boeuf bourginon, the what-you-see-is-what-you-get beauty of Osso Buco is akin to that of a dewy young star. The Justin Bieber of pot roast, if you will.
Think of your butcher as a talent agent. Make sure he books you cuts from about halfway down the shank part of the leg where the proportion of meat and marrow is optimal. Two inches thick should do it. One of you should tie some kitchen twine around the waistlines of the pieces which will prevent the tender braised meat from slipping away from the bone.
Before I tick off my tips for making Osso Buco, please take note of this exuberant Richard Ginori china. The venerable Italian porcelain firm, whose wares have graced the tables of Medicis and Bonapartes, recently introduced this feverishly festive collection called Folkware. We are the happy recipients of a service for 12, the dinner plates and soup plates all in different colors and patterns, which means endless kaleidoscopic combinations. Very snazzy, very happy and gay! Thank you dear friends.
So back to making Osso Buco, this recipe is perfect for a pair of newlyweds with hearty appetities:
2 veal shanks cut for Osso Buco tied around the middle
small handful of dried porcini mushrooms
olive oil
1 carrot
1 celery stalk
1 small onion
4 sliced fresh button mushrooms
1/2 c. white wine
pinches of sage and rosemary
1 bay leaf
3 plum tomatoes
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Note: you'll want to serve this atop saffron risotto prepared while the meat is braising, so plan accordingly.
Cover the dried porcini mushrooms with boiling water and let steep for 30 minutes.
Dice the carrot, celery and onion. Thinly slice the fresh mushrooms. Cut the tomatoes in half around the middle and squeeze out all the seeds and watery stuff that surrounds them.
Pat the shanks dry, hit them with salt and pepper and brown well on both sides in olive oil in a heavy cast iron stew pot. Remove the meat, add a little more oil, lower the heat and sauté the carrot, celery and onion until they wilt and soften, 5 minutes. About half way through add the slice button mushrooms.
Take the porcini out of the soaking water and cut into small pieces. Pour the mushroom water into a measuring cup with the wine, being careful not to tip in the last bit of dregs.
Pour the wine/mushroom water into the pot and deglaze the bottom with a wooden spoon. Add a little more water if needed. Stir in the herbs and the reconstituted porcini.
Position a box grater over the pot and use the palm of your hand to grate the flesh of the tomatoes directly into the pot. Rubbing the seeded halves down the grater will result in a smooth puree without any skin. (I don't know where I learned this trick but it comes in very handy.)
Nestle the shanks back into the pot, cover and place in a pre-heated 325º oven. After 30 minutes, carefully turn the shanks over and spoon some of the cooking liquid over each.
They should be meltingly tender in one hour. It's fine to let them rest in the oven with heat turned off for a half hour or so. Which is good if you are serving them with saffron risotto, as shown here.
No special tricks to the risotto — the best of everything of course (rice, butter, stock, wine, cheese) and a liberal hand with the saffron.
Make a nest of risotto and place an Osso Buco in each. Spoon some of the braising liquid over each. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.
BTW, osso = bone; buco = hole. Isn't the Italian more pleasant?
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