James Jefferson Kelly, who arrived in New York City in 1874 as a 14 year old stowaway from Ballinsloe, Ireland rose to prominence and fame as New York's "King of Steaks." This is his original steak sauce recipe, passed down through subsequent generations who, while holding true to the noble culinary standards of the House of Kelly, have never reclaimed the throne.
How do I know? I'm a direct descendant. The King of Steaks was my great grandfather. But the closest I've ever come to royalty was as a cater waiter serving chicken pot pie to HRH Princess Margaret in the '80s. (No second helpings of dinner but plenty of refills Famous Grouse "with two lumps of ice.")
My grandmother saved this copy of her father's obituary from 1907, which says it all:
"KING OF STEAKS" DEAD.
James Jefferson Kelly, Far Rockaway's Noted Butcher Passes Out.
James Jefferson Kelly, chef of many beefsteak parties at Far Rockaway, when that place was the favorite summer resort of New York City politicians, died to-day at his home in James Street, Far Rockaway. He kept a thriving butcher shop on Broadway and was called upon to act as chef because of his knowledge of the selection of the prime, juicy steaks that used to be joy of the parties which were washed down with jugs of foaming ale. He was a friend of "Bill" Devery, who owned a Kings estate in the Far Rockaway and Baywater sections. He was often called the "king of steaks."
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Mr. Kelly was in his forty-seventh year. He came to this country from Ireland as a butcher's apprentice. He leaves his widow, and three children, Marie, Joseph and Aloysius. Funeral Services will be held Friday at 9:30 A. M. at Mary's Star of the Sea Church. Interment will be in St. John's Cemetery, Middle Village.
So it was very fitting after laying Grandma Marie to rest alongside her parents the family celebrated her life with sizzling porterhouses at Brooklyn's justly-famous Peter Luger. But while only fools challenge the supremacy of Luger's steaks today, we descendants of the King of Steaks would like you to know that it was founded in 1887 as Carl Luger's Cafe, Billiards and Bowling Alley.
I'm just sayin'.
The recipe for the King of Steak's Steak Sauce is rich indeed. You can't let the pound of butter that kicks things off scare you, nor should you fiddle with the spices. In a singular nod to modernity we have been granted dispensation to substitute fresh mushrooms for canned, but otherwise this is the real deal.
Click here for a taste of 19th century luxury, the King of Steak's Steak Sauce recipe.