All hail the voluptuous splendor of melted cheese! Make way for the glorious recipe for provoleta! Let it be known that mighty Argentina has enthroned provoleta — oozy, chewy, spicy,melted provolone — on the Olympus of melted cheese dishes.
Visiting Buenos Aires for the first time this past spring, Steve and I had all the fun that comes in knocking around one the world's great cities, a beautiful, sophisticated metropolis rich in culture, history, architecture. And cuisine. The Argentine beef did not disappoint, and it's very nice indeed to have your expectations fulfilled. No complaints.
Still, that was a pleasure anticipated, an expectation fulfilled. It was the less-celebrated provoleta cheese that provided unexpected gastronomic delight.
After all, the discovery of a new dish confers more happiness on humanity than the discovery of a new star. The source of this wisdom, Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin (but you knew that already) is also on record with "A dessert without cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye." Proof, if ever needed, that he knew of what he spoke.
Served at the beginning of a meal, provoleta's best known iteration is grilled over the glowing coals that char the steaks soon to follow. Slabs of local provolone are browned and broken into submission, snatched from the fire just moments away from final surrender into molten blobs that would perish through the grates into the fire below.
The delightful athlete's-foot funk of the provolone enlists oregano, ed pepper flakes and of olive oil as its JV squad and is presented on a plate as a knife-and-fork operation.
This white porcelain provoleta dish, found in a nice little housewares shop in the tonier districts of Palermo, provides a simpler method. Swab the dish with olive oil first, the fill with cubed cheese to ensure thorough melting. The herbs and red pepper will then melt into the cheese under the broiler, everything relaxing into small half-spheres, perfect on a slice of toast made from a rugged, rustic loaf.
If you go the grill route, let the slabs of cheese sit out at room temperature for a couple of hours. The exterior will dry into a skin which is helpful in holding the mass together. The broiler method (you could use small ramekins) is a bit more manageable. There's no real recipe for provoleta or at least I wasn't given one. Armed with the ingredients and the concept, you're sure to figure our your own path.
Before and after pictures in the elegant provoleta dish.
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