Escabeche was in Mom's repertoire, not too surprising as she was a adventuress in the kitchen, breaking free of the constraints of her traditional Irish-American upbringing. Grandma Marie was the master of conservative cooking. I don't think she really enjoyed it. Golf, bowling, bridge and penny poker were more up her alley and she had the trophies to prove it. Pepper (from a tin of course, no pepper mill in site) was living on the edge in the Brennan kitchen.
Escabeche was a party food for grown ups. The week leading up we'd open the fridge countless times (natch) and be confronted with a large glass vessel layered with fish and peppers, resting comfortably in oil and vinegar. It was a little weird because she used the base of our old-timey vaporizer, a gallon-sized glass crock with a black top that would hiss steam. The vaporizer was a bedside fixture when we were sick. Using it for long marinades was was ingenious but odd. There was always a bit of an Ewww, what's that doing in there reaction.
Escabeche is kind of like ceviche, only not. Ceviches of raw fish are briefly marinated in citrus juice and herbs. It doesn't take long for the citrus to "cook" the fish, no more than an hour, often times less, depending on the type and cut of the fish. Any longer and the fish will get rubbery.
With escabeche the fish is cooked through first, then given a week-long pickling in flavored vinegar and oil. Perfect make-ahead summer party food starring fresh local swordfish. What could be bad?
This recipe calls for large green Spanish olives. They can be a hassle to pit. Good news: here's a new use for your meat mallet. Use the flat side to smash the olives on a cutting board. The pits come out and the smashed olives offer up their flavor more readily.
Old-timey recipes — métodos al estilo antiguo y tradicionales — say you can leave the fish to marinate on the counter top for a week, covered with cheese cloth.
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This makes sense as escabeche pre-dates the ice-box. Still, it would take a braver man than I to try that method. Purists might tell you the chill kills some of the flavor. Just what flavor is imparted in fish left out on the counter for a week will have to remain unknown chez moi. Refrigerated marinating is a modernization I'm happy to live with. And the results are fine, just fine.
And so I give you the Sullivan family's original gourmet recipe for escabeche.
Click here for Escabeche recipe.
You can multiply this recipe easily. Probably the biggest challenge will be having enough suitable containers to marinate in, and the space in the refrigerator. But think how nice a large platter of tender, piquant swordfish steaks will look on a summer buffet table.