Chances are last time (or only time) most people heard "Mulligatawny Soup" was in the famous Seinfeld Soup Nazi episode, when Elaine gloatingly reads the roster of his secret recipes which have fallen into her hands. (So she gets to keep the armoire, remember?)
The soup course has taken some knocks over the years, dating way back to the great society hostess Elsie de Wolfe, of "You can't build a house on a lake" fame. And there's the contemporary notion that soup has got to be a one-dish meal to contend with. That's just wrong. A beautiful soup course is an exquisite gateway to a splendid meal.
But most importantly, it's got to be sublime. Enter our old friend Mulligatawny.
People who know about these things say Mulligatawny originated in Colonial India, when the English toned down traditional lentil stews. But the flavors of the sub continent are not lost here, far from it. It's just that the curry, the coconut, the cilantro are more muted. In a good way.
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This Mulligatawny makes its entrance in a bowl set with an eye-pleasing array of garnishes and condiments — slivers of chicken breast, roasted cashews, shredded coconut. Then, enter the Mulligatawny in your most magnificent tureen, "hot, hot, hot" as the much more sensible Dorothy Draper commanded. Ladle the soup into the bowls — or, if you can carry it off, your soup "plates." Proceed with caution there — the whole affected Brittish-ism thing easily falls flat.
As you can see, my most magnificent soup tureen is something of a splendid horror. Yard sale find. Pros: it has a good capacity, there isn't a single nick or chip, it's unique. Cons: have you ever seen something so hideous? It could easily share the table with "The World's Ugliest Jug," I'll keep looking for the perfect tureen, but until then this'll have to do.
Link to Mulligatawny Soup Recipe