A recent New York Magazine piece by Gillian Duffy told the story of a Princess Doria who lived in the St. Regis Hotel during the days of Lespinasse. Her special relationship with Chef Gray Kunz gave her the unique privilege of taking the restaurant's meals in her suite, including this Potage Princess Doria. My pal Bernard was a waiter at Lespinasse during its glory days, so I did a little fact checking of my own…
Yes indeed, Princess Doria was a very well-known character at the restaurant. Many special dishes were created just for her liking, including this hearty yet refined potage that appeared in the NYM story. Having the four-star Lespinasse kitchens provide her room service was an unheard of exception to St. Regis policy.
Bernard says the princess would phone the restaurant before her arrival to discuss what she'd like for dinner — oftentimes mid-flight aboard the Concorde. Alas, the Concorde and Lespinasse are with us no more. A quick Google of Princess Doria turns up two possibilities: Princess Marina Ricolfi-Doria, who in addition to her noble duties was a champion water skier, even appearing at Florida's Cypress World in her youth; and Princess Orietta Pogson Doria Pamphlij. Both Italian, both with storied lives and sadly, both now deceased. But who knows, maybe the Princess Doria of the St. Regis is still among us. Where ever she is, we have her to thank for inspiring this regal soup.
And Bernard? He opened a wonderful Chambres d'Hote in Vertheuil, Bordeaux. "Le V." Rated #1 on TripAdvisor: http://su.pr/1pcAM8
POTAGE PRINCESS DORIA
2 T. your best olive oil
2 c. bacon cut in 1/2 inch dice
2 c. sliced sweet onion
2 c. roughly chopped leeks, white part only
1/4 t. red pepper flakes
2 c. carrots, sliced 1/4 inch thick
2 c. celery root, cut in large dice
2 c. small mixed potatoes (red, yellow, wax), cut in 1/4 inch rounds
2 c. Jerusalem artichokes (a.k.a. sunchokes) scrubbed and cut in 1/4 inch rounds (baby turnips can be substituted)
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1/2 t. pepper
8 c. good chicken broth (two 32 oz. containers)
Herb packet: 3 bay leaves and 10 branches fresh thyme, tied together with string
6 c. kale, washed and torn
Garnish:
Hazelnut or pumpkin seed oil
2 T. grated Parmesan
Heat oil in large pot on medium heat. Add bacon, cook slowly until it starts to crisp a little. Add the onion, leeks and red pepper flakes, increase heat to medium-high and stir occasionally. Cook until the onions and leeks have begun to soften, making sure the onions do not color — about 3 minutes.
Add carrots, celery root, potatoes, Jerusalem artichokes, s&p, broth and herb packet, stir together, increase heat to high and continue cooking at a low bubble until the vegetables soften, about 30 minutes.
When vegetables are cooked but still have some structure, stir in the kale and cook until soft, about 10 minutes.
Drizzle each serving with pumpkin seed or hazelnut oil and sprinkle with cheese.
When serving, a tiara is optional.
POTAGE DORA RECIPE FOR PRINTING