Last year about this time Steve and I went to Rome and not surprisingly we loved every minute. A few of our "When in Rome" highlights: a close-up of the Pope; the Borghese Galleries; tracking down Bernini sculptures in some lesser-known churches; and the Diocletian Baths. And of course, the food, the food, the food! Armed with recommendations from friends we felt we did well … [Read more...]
SUMMER KIMCHI
Not all kimchi is red. It's not always fiery hot, and doesn't have to be audaciously aromatic. Sometimes something lighter is called for, something fresher, something that doesn't scare the timid. In these situations summer kimchi is just the thing. Bright, crunchy and fresh tasting, this pretty toss of cabbage, carrot and radish is only slightly sour. Fresh Serrano … [Read more...]
KALE KIMCHI
Did you know October 7th is National Kale Day? I didn't either. So it's probably not a surprise that the requisite celebratory dishes are still being established. Kale evangelists are working overtime to remedy this, offering lots of intriguing recipes — tacos and smoothies of course, but also delicacies like Kale Stroganoff, Hoboken Kale Salad and the … [Read more...]
Fennel Kimchi
Although home made kimchi is a relatively late addition to my culinary repertoire, it has quickly achieved star status. It may not be playing to sold out houses yet (see my earlier lament of the lonely fermenter) but no matter. This one is here to stay. Fennel kimchi is now the go-to version in the SpecD kitchens. The anise flavor and crunch hold up well amid the hot red … [Read more...]
BRUSSELS SPROUT KIMCHI
Since not everyone is a fan, making kimchi can be something of a lonely pursuit. No matter. The spicy, funky crunch of what is basically a fermented salad is well worth it. You'll be surprised how often it will perk up everyday fare. Kimchi's cross-culture popularity began as a topper for tacos. (See Roy Choi.) Tacos are a good guide post; try using kimchi where you might … [Read more...]
STUFFED CABBAGE CAKE / CHOU FARCI GATEAUX
It's hard to get too worked up about stuffed cabbage, at least for me. Hearty, homey, tasty -- yes. But elegant? Not so much. Until now. This stuffed cabbage cake, or better still, Chou Farci Gâteau, takes a modest meal and elevates it to true star stature. And it's not all that hard. Instead of individually stuffed rolls, the braised meat is built up in layers of … [Read more...]
HOME MADE KIMCHI
No doubt about it, kimchi is an acquired taste. But once familiarized with its fiery, tangy crunch, it's addictive. Thanks to the rise of Korean-American chefs like Roy Choi and David Chang kimchi has found felicitous mash-ups with other cuisines, notably Mexican. I particularly like a big blob of cool kimchi on top of pasta marinara or Bolognese. Seriously satisfying. This … [Read more...]
PENNE ALL NORMA: A BARILLA PASTA GAY-FRIENDLY FAMILY RECIPE
The Barilla Pasta “we don’t think gay families represent our values” dust-up last fall reminded me of a Barilla-sponsored luncheon I attended in '07 or '08. Pasta was on the plate and family mealtime was the topic at table. Although it's taken a while to dig into my files (i.e. piles of papers and random flash drives) I supposed that there must have been a … [Read more...]
SAMPHIRE ASPARAGUS VINAIGRETTE
One of the thrills of foraging is tapping into Mother Nature's limitless abundance. While some treasures of the earth are hard to come by (see: truffles) wild samphire is abundant here on eastern Long Island and at its peak now, in early summer. Samphire, a.k.a seabeans, sea asparagus, salicornia, or picklewort, thrives in the marshy, sandy shores of Three Mile Harbor in … [Read more...]
PEA SHOOT PESTO
Turns out early summer isn't such a bad time to join Weight Watchers. Facing the somewhat grim regimen of Points, Power Foods and vanishing carbs is easier when fresh produce (for the unlimited fruits and vegetables the program allows) comes into abundance. These pea shoots were on offer at an East Hampton farm stand. The guy said they would make a nice pesto. True … [Read more...]