Just like gardeners carefully combing the pebbles in Japanese rock gardens, the slow, meditative raking in the shallow bottoms East Hampton's bays creates a satisfying Zen-like serenity. And you get the bonus of the tastiest clams imaginable for recipes like this Bonacker Chowder. As much as I enjoy a morning's labor collecting … [Read more...]
ESCABECHE: OUR ORIGINAL GOURMET RECIPE
Escabeche was in Mom's repertoire, not too surprising as she was a adventuress in the kitchen, breaking free of the constraints of her traditional Irish-American upbringing. Grandma Marie was the master of conservative cooking. I don't think she really enjoyed it. Golf, bowling, bridge and penny poker were more up her alley and she had the trophies to … [Read more...]
SHRIMP AND SCALLOPS WITH MAYONNAISE VERTE
Now that summer is really, truly here, I find fish dishes highly appealing, like this recipe for shrimp and scallops with green mayonnaise. Don't get me wrong, we enjoy fish year-round, but out on the east end of Long Island come June all things aquatic take over the collective consciousness. I get the rod and reel out a couple of times each … [Read more...]
SOLE VERONIQUE: AN ORIGINAL GOURMET RECIPE
It seems like Sole Véronique had its heyday then drifted off into the land of culinary outcasts. I know I've never ordered this original gourmet classic -- fish and grapes? Sounds weird. But the name -- how elegant. How enigmatic. Just who was this Véronique, whose muse was she to inspire this … [Read more...]
LONG ISLAND BOUILLABAISSE: A CHOICE MEAL
Even though Bouillabaisse fits the criteria of Spectacularly Delicious -- proper name, special equipment (food mill), and unusual taste and presentation (break out that soup tureen!), I didn't put this at the top of my list as a choice meal. Seemed like there were enough bouillabaisse recipes already out there until I found this recipe for long island … [Read more...]
HOMARD A LA DAVID LETTERMAN – A CHOICE MEAL
As promised, here's another doozy from Le Bec-Fin Recipes by George Perrier, a true choice meal for the discerning palate. The intro to this dish says the lobster recipe was created for the chef's first appearance on the Letterman show, which must have been pre-heart attack Dave, as the recipe calls for a prodigious amount of butter. One of the best … [Read more...]
ORIGNAL GOURMET: BRAIDED SALMON AND SOLE
Used bookstores are treasure troves of spectacularly delicious recipes. This original gourmet stunner is from Le Bec-Fin Recipes, by Georges Perrier. A million years ago I was at a fancy catered lunch with some chefs flown in from who-knows-where. The only memorable thing about that meal was a braid of different kinds of fish. So you can imagine my … [Read more...]
CHOICE MEALS: FIRST SOFT SHELLS OF THE SEASON
While on the prowl at the fish counter, the welcome sight heralding the arrival of the season's most choice meals beckoned. Soft shell crabs -- one of spring's greatest glories. Poor dears, neatly lined up with their little bubbling faces and slightly moving claws, unaware of their imminent sacrifice to become a … [Read more...]
MARCO POLO SQUID
Why Marco Polo? Homage to the great Venetian who traveled all the way to China and back in the 13th century -- 26 years, 15,000 miles. Can you imagine? And when you consider that per capita squid consumption is highest in Mediterranean and east Asian countries, Marco Polo Squid makes even more sense. As we discovered with International Sweetbreads, melding … [Read more...]
THE LOST VREELAND MEMOS
Legendary Harper's Bazaar editor Diana Vreeland is famous for her "Why Don't You..." suggestions -- surprising, oftentimes outlandish but ever the epitome of haute chic. Not limited to fashion, her sage ideas ranged from child rearing ("wash your children's hair in dead Champagne to keep its gold, as they do in France?), … [Read more...]