To me, Christmas means a return to the bosom of family in St. Louis. And as a native of that fair city, St. Louis means many things, not the least of which is Provel Cheese. Actually, to be completely accurate, it's Provel processed cheese food product. It's a fundamental component of St. Louis cuisine right along with toasted ravioli, Ted Drewe's frozen custard, baked … [Read more...]
WILD BLUEBERRY MANGO JAM
The secret to this blueberry jam recipe (and there's always a secret to the good ones) is not the mango. What kind of secret is that? No, the little something that make this jam mighty are mites of coriander and cinnamon. In this small quantity they boost the natural spice of the blueberries without making the jam taste "funny." No one really likes these kind of surprises, … [Read more...]
Deviled Eggs with Smoked Trout Roe
Not all the art at Art Basel in Miami Beach was hung on walls. This delightful duet of deviled eggs was served up at Yardbird on 16th Street. The creamy yolks were gently spicy, the trout roe topper nice and smokey and salty and a little bit fishy in a good way. These were not made in the Spectacularly Delicious test kitchens. But when we do try them, this is what we'll … [Read more...]
TIRAMISU
I jumped at the invitation to a Lavazza coffee party with special guest Debi Mazur. Many moons ago I did PR for Bumble + bumble hair salon where young Debi M (as she styled herself then) was a rising star beautician. Her path led to celebrity and stardom, to Goodfellas and Entourage. The downtown It Girl who was Madonna's best friend and Pee Wee Herman's girlfriend. And now … [Read more...]
CLAMS CASINO ROYALE
While steaming clams open is the easiest way to make Clams Casino, shucking raw clams and cooking them only as long as it takes to brown the bread crumbs and bacon is the best method. The true, authentic, delicious Clams Casino. Why royale? because freshly shucked clams are a rarity worthy of royals, heads of state and other notable worthies. CLAMS CASINO ROYALE Recipe 1 … [Read more...]
PASTA PRIMAVERA: AUTHENTIC AND OTHERWISE
Culinary purists and in-the-know gourmands maintain that the popular dish Pasta Primavera isn't an "authentic" Italian recipe. Quotations because when all is said and done, what really constitutes authenticity? Pasta Primavera was birthed in this country by the esteemed Italian food authority and cookbook author Ed Giobbi. He's Italian. He's an expert. His recipe … [Read more...]
Pasta Picchi Pacchi
Pasta Picchi Pacchi: the name is too cutesy perhaps but the recipe is a winner. Pretty simple too, it's basically tomatoes (fresh here, but canned are the more traditional choice), some anchovies, lots of olive oil, garlic, basil. Grated provolone is the secret ingredient. Picchi Pacchi seems to be Italian grannyspeak for a little of this, a little of that. Or maybe … [Read more...]
HOMEMADE CULTURED BUTTER
Supermarket butter isn't bland by accident; our dairy industry is rewarded for making the most flavorless product possible. Which is why this recipe for homemade cultured butter (ripped from the headlines of the New York Times) is such an exciting discovery. Margaret Visser's Much Depends on Dinner (1989) explains the USDA's butter grading system. Not surprisingly flavor is … [Read more...]
RASPBERRY PEAR JAM
Pears and raspberries play nicely in this hot-buttered-toast-ready jam. The sweet fruity flavor is reminiscent of Hawaiian Punch in the best possible sense. Don't have a moment's worry about using frozen raspberries. Whether fresh or frozen, all raspberries subjected to this jam-making treatment turn out exactly the same: delicious! These blue jars (click to buy) are … [Read more...]
TURKISH GREEN APPLE LEMONADE
Green Apple Lemonade, as served in the bustling cafés of Istanbul's most fashionable neighborhoods, is an elixir that captures nature's very life force. Cold tumblers of fresh lemonade topped with a boisterous boost of freshly extracted tart green apple juice gives new meaning to Turkish delight. (Ask Çevdet, owner of the wonderful Galata Flats Hotel in Karaköy -- he'll steer … [Read more...]