Paella feels like a summertime dish to me, in part because old-school versions in Spain are prepared over a fire. Plus it's great make-ahead party food. The fish, the chicken, the tomatoes and peppers, make for great warm weather fare. Of course it need not be limited to just summer, or summer. These 10 Rules for Perfect Paella apply year 'round. You can try this Lobster … [Read more...]
KUGELHOPF DELUXE WITH ORANGE GLAZE
Spring yard sale season is in full swing here in East Hampton with treasures galore to be had for a pittance. Witness my new Wilton kugelhopf pan - never used, label intact though showing the benign neglect earned by long storage under sub-optimal conditions. No matter, it was well worth its 25¢ price tag. And not just any label, but one with a recipe! The Wilton recipe … [Read more...]
MEATBALLS IN ALMOND SAUCE – ALBONDIGAS EN SALSA DE ALMENDRA
The first rule of meatballs is they must be light. Rule #2 (and only possible if rule #1 is obeyed) is they must be delicious. Thus concludes the rules of meatballs. Given the amount of rubbery, bland meatballs out there you might think you come across you might not necessarily think this is true, but it is: Spectacular meatballs aren't hard at all. Panko bread crumbs … [Read more...]
NACHOS ESPECIALES
It's not as if more proof is needed that our county has gone to hell in a hand basket, but another example of the current sorry state of affairs is the nacho. In fact, nacho, as in the singular piece, is nearly extinct. What passes for 'nachos' in restaurants bear are, well let's face it, a hot mess. You know what I mean. The nacho I feel in love with in Mexico (yes, … [Read more...]
OPULENCE! LOBSTERS, OYSTERS, CAVIAR AND MORE
There are those who are enchanted by the notion of a bridal bouquet fashioned from a head of organic cauliflower. For some, doling dulse into their quinoa is considered an indulgence. Yes, there's much is to be said about the simple joys in life, the charm of the unadorned and the modest. But you won't read about that here. At least not today. Opulence is the theme of … [Read more...]
PIEDMONTESE LOBSTER RAVIOLI
One of New York's lesser known treasures: Piedmontese Ravioli on Broome St. in Little Italy. Made fresh daily. Totally old school. Amazing flavors and varieties. (And shockingly reasonable prices.) Here are their lobster ravioli, regular recipe and tomato basil. These will also be temporary results and often disappear completely as ordine cialis on line soon as you … [Read more...]
CROQUEMBOUCHE
Croquembouche: The dessert that "combines elegant traditionalism with an imaginative modern approach to the elaborate form of styling."* It's not quite fair to say that Croquembouche is simple, but the effort-to-reward ratio is off the charts, thus making the endeavor well worth the undertaking. Croquembouche's translation, basically "crunch in the mouth," is spot on. … [Read more...]
WILD WILD RICE
The inaugural Wild Wild Rice - a stir-fried wild rice recipe made all the more savage with a lawless quantity of additions-- made its debut at a swank dinner party two dining rooms ago. (The storied red dining room on West 11th St.) And how was it? Look no further than the ecstatic reaction of glamorous guest Gena Bone, whose gustatory opinions are le dernier cri in smart … [Read more...]
WILD WILD RICE RECIPE
Wild Wild Rice Recipe Note: This recipe takes well to customization with additional bits of vegetables and herbs and sauces 4 c. chicken broth 1/2 c. sherry 6 T. soy sauce, divided 1 t. Rooster brand chili sauce (sriracha) 1/2 t. salt zest of 1/2 an orange 6 T. butter, divided 1/2 c. minced onion 4 cloves of garlic, minced 2 c. wild rice blend (wild rice with … [Read more...]
BUTTERED RADISHES
As made by the incomparable Gabrielle Hamilton, James Beard Award-winning author or Blood, Bones & Butter: The Inadvertent Education of a Reluctant Chef and chef/owner of NYC's celebrated Prune restaurant. I was told the secret is to mix a tiny bit of cream into the melted butter, then dip in very cold radishes. Trim the bottoms in advance so they sit flat on the … [Read more...]