Used bookstores are treasure troves of spectacularly delicious recipes. This original gourmet stunner is from Le Bec-Fin Recipes, by Georges Perrier. A million years ago I was at a fancy catered lunch with some chefs flown in from who-knows-where. The only memorable thing about that meal was a braid of different kinds of fish. So you can imagine my … [Read more...]
MACHACA CON HUEVOS — MEXICAN ORIGINAL GOURMET RECIPE
Machaca is a Mexican original gourmet recipe that rarely shows up on menus here in los Estados Unidos. While Menudo (tripe soup) is widely touted as the perfect morning-after cure-all, when I was down in sunny Mexico, doing that show with Super Olga, rough mornings called for Machaca con Huevos. Back in the … [Read more...]
CHOICE MEALS: FIRST SOFT SHELLS OF THE SEASON
While on the prowl at the fish counter, the welcome sight heralding the arrival of the season's most choice meals beckoned. Soft shell crabs -- one of spring's greatest glories. Poor dears, neatly lined up with their little bubbling faces and slightly moving claws, unaware of their imminent sacrifice to become a … [Read more...]
LEMONGRASS ROASTED CHICKEN
The fashion cycles of food -- what's in, what's out -- keep the breakneck pace of all other cultural channels, apparel, music, home, what have you. So now let's rush to the latest boutique charcuterie, gorge ourselves on offal, scarf down the biggest, baddest hunks of grass-fed heirloom cattle. Remember when Fred … [Read more...]
MARCO POLO SQUID
Why Marco Polo? Homage to the great Venetian who traveled all the way to China and back in the 13th century -- 26 years, 15,000 miles. Can you imagine? And when you consider that per capita squid consumption is highest in Mediterranean and east Asian countries, Marco Polo Squid makes even more sense. As we discovered with International Sweetbreads, melding … [Read more...]
DINGLE PIE (SPICED LAMB PIE)
Heaven knows there's no paucity of sons and daughters or Eire in America and celebrating March 17th is a highlight of our calendar. The spirit of fun and pride is contagious, though oftentimes of borderline taste, e.g. shamrock painted faces, green hair, assorted crimes of fashion and please, that green river in … [Read more...]
BOEUF BOURGUIGNON: UNDER PRESSURE
Growing up we took Mom's cooking for granted. Three squares a day -- hot breakfasts, bagged lunches, afternoon snacks. The whole family sat down to dinner six nights a week, always a complete salad-meat-starch-veg-dessert menu. Saturdays were special with casual fare like "make your own taco night" or homemade pizza, plus we … [Read more...]
SHOCKING PINK PASTA
Between the name and the photo you get the idea. Make no mistake, startling yes, yet indeed delicious. And why not? Your best Parmesan, cream, good chicken broth, a little crunch of bell peppers coating al dente pasta. The earthy sweetness and brilliant color of roasted beets is the not-so-secret ingredient that makes this … [Read more...]
SAUERBRATEN LUDWIG with SPINACH SPAETZLE
Though Sullivans, Kellys and Brennans make up the bigger branches of my family tree, higher up you'll find some fine German stock, Ludwigs and Zapps, and a venerable French-Canadian line, the Labbees. So in honor of my great grandmother Martha Kelly (nee Ludwig), this rendition of sauerbraten Lugwig with spinach spaetzle goes out to … [Read more...]
CALIFORNIA DUCK BURRITOS
Anyone who's ever complained of the mess of roasting a duck has obviously never cooked a goose. Get yourself a goose and you're talking bucket loads of spattering hot fat. You'll want to save some to fry potatoes the next day, but you still have to dispose of quarts of the stuff. That said, this method of cooking duck burritos 1.) … [Read more...]