Because why not? Making corn relish is an annual event here on Springy Banks. Come the holidays, it's one of our most-requested condiments. This summer I added a new twist, grilling the corn first, giving a toasty, tawny flavor. Due to its popularity I always put up a whole bushel of corn. It might look daunting at first but once you get going things move along quickly, … [Read more...]
Two Fancy Jams: Blood Orange Marmalade and Meyer Lemon Marmalade
Winter citrus season is winding down but there's still time to put up some scrumpuous marmalade, which is variously defined as a citrus jam, jelly or preserve. These versions of the same basic formula take advantage of fancy fruits before they disappear from grocery shelves for another year. The first, with blood oranges, is like a a one-act play: portentous title, drama of … [Read more...]
Quince Jelly
Never having tasted quince, I was intrigued to find this pile at United Brothers Fruit Market in Astoria, Queens. Prior to this I'd only seen them in the fancy parterre gardens at the Cloisters Museum way uptown. So quince has always carried vague impressions of maidens and lutes and unicorn tapestries. Who could resist? Not I. Quince jelly might be the simplest yet. … [Read more...]
Fennel Kimchi
Although home made kimchi is a relatively late addition to my culinary repertoire, it has quickly achieved star status. It may not be playing to sold out houses yet (see my earlier lament of the lonely fermenter) but no matter. This one is here to stay. Fennel kimchi is now the go-to version in the SpecD kitchens. The anise flavor and crunch hold up well amid the hot red … [Read more...]
MOSTARDA DI CREMONA
So I've been on a Jane Gardam binge lately, reading everything of hers I can get my hands on. Her writing is addictive, her stories filled with all-too-human characters and happy small surprises. (Start with Old Filth; and no, it's not what you think.) In The Hot Sweets of Cremona she introduces us to Mostarda di Cremona, "bright fruit things" displayed in an Italian … [Read more...]
OPULENCE! LOBSTERS, OYSTERS, CAVIAR AND MORE
There are those who are enchanted by the notion of a bridal bouquet fashioned from a head of organic cauliflower. For some, doling dulse into their quinoa is considered an indulgence. Yes, there's much is to be said about the simple joys in life, the charm of the unadorned and the modest. But you won't read about that here. At least not today. Opulence is the theme of … [Read more...]