I have a theory why home-made mustard stands out from commercial brands: store-bought mustard is processed to be shelf stable, i.e. heated and sealed, which in effect cooks it. Soaking and grinding the seeds at home results in a fresher, spicier, more mustardy result. This preserved lemon mustard has a lot of personality - sharp, peppery, and lemony. It's unique enough to be … [Read more...]
GRILLED CORN RELISH
Because why not? Making corn relish is an annual event here on Springy Banks. Come the holidays, it's one of our most-requested condiments. This summer I added a new twist, grilling the corn first, giving a toasty, tawny flavor. Due to its popularity I always put up a whole bushel of corn. It might look daunting at first but once you get going things move along quickly, … [Read more...]
WATER-CURED OLIVES, PICKLED GREEN ALMONDS, WHEY-PICKLED PEPPERS: WHAT I’VE LEARNED
This summer I tried my hand at few new types and techniques for pickling. The sub-head on this post is What I've Learned. Spoiler: It might better be called I Tried It So You Don't Have To. Here goes. At my neighborhood green grocer in Astoria, United Brothers Fruit Markets, there's always an enormous variety of produce, and often stuff I've never seen before, like raw … [Read more...]
Two Fancy Jams: Blood Orange Marmalade and Meyer Lemon Marmalade
Winter citrus season is winding down but there's still time to put up some scrumpuous marmalade, which is variously defined as a citrus jam, jelly or preserve. These versions of the same basic formula take advantage of fancy fruits before they disappear from grocery shelves for another year. The first, with blood oranges, is like a a one-act play: portentous title, drama of … [Read more...]
PINK GRAPEFRUIT MARMALADE TWO WAYS: GRAPEFRUIT HONEY AND GRAPEFRUIT CAMPARI
While jelly and jam making is generally thought to be a summertime activity, winter canning has its own advantages. A warm, steamy kitchen in January is a lot more appealing than it is in August. It's undeniable that the flavors of berries and tree fruits are at their brightest in the hot weather months. But citrus fruits are at their best in winter, especially seasonal … [Read more...]
Quince Jelly
Never having tasted quince, I was intrigued to find this pile at United Brothers Fruit Market in Astoria, Queens. Prior to this I'd only seen them in the fancy parterre gardens at the Cloisters Museum way uptown. So quince has always carried vague impressions of maidens and lutes and unicorn tapestries. Who could resist? Not I. Quince jelly might be the simplest yet. … [Read more...]
KALE KIMCHI
Did you know October 7th is National Kale Day? I didn't either. So it's probably not a surprise that the requisite celebratory dishes are still being established. Kale evangelists are working overtime to remedy this, offering lots of intriguing recipes — tacos and smoothies of course, but also delicacies like Kale Stroganoff, Hoboken Kale Salad and the … [Read more...]
BEACH PLUM JELLY – OLD SCHOOL RECIPE
Late August in East Hampton is beach plum season. Maybe it was the weather (wet early on, then sunny, temperate days in July and August) or that we went a' pickin' a week or so earlier than usual, but the crop was especially bountiful. We snagged three gallons of plums in under an hour. There was also a nice mix of ripe, deep red and purple plums, and not-yet-ripe … [Read more...]
PEACH MELON ALMOND JAM
It's August in East Hampton and if ever there was a time to make this Peach Melon Almond jam it's now. Peaches are at their height, the perfect partner for the translucent nuggets of ripe cantaloupe in this jewel-toned beauty of a jam. Yesterday a discerning friend proclaimed "The best jam I've ever had, hands down." So what are you waiting for? PEACH MELON ALMOND … [Read more...]
Fennel Kimchi
Although home made kimchi is a relatively late addition to my culinary repertoire, it has quickly achieved star status. It may not be playing to sold out houses yet (see my earlier lament of the lonely fermenter) but no matter. This one is here to stay. Fennel kimchi is now the go-to version in the SpecD kitchens. The anise flavor and crunch hold up well amid the hot red … [Read more...]