I've got a confession. I find many of the classic stewed meats in broth recipes rather lack-luster, even insipid. Apart from the odiferous hot mess of a corned beef and cabbage boil up, I find France's Pot-au-Feu, Italy's Bollito Misto, even Japan's Shabu Shabu… meh.
Who'd a thunk the Scots would be the ones to create a superlatively satisfying melange of simmered vegetables and chicken in this recipe for Cock-a-Leekie? Now the original recipes are really soups, perhaps in keeping with the old stereotypes of Scottish thrift. ("How many Scots does it take to change a light bulb? Och, it's not that dark." "Did you hear about the Scot taking a lassie out for a night on the town? She was so beautiful he could hardly keep his eyes off the taxi meter.")
Now before you get all up in arms in PC indignation, remember I am an equal opportunity bigot, not too proud to ridicule my Irish roots.
With a name like Cock-a-Leekie it's not surprising that chicken and leeks take center stage. But there's more to it — barley, celery, carrots, potatoes and prunes come into play. Never mind why, it calls for prunes and you'll be very grateful to whoever thought that one up.
This Spectacularly Delicious recipe thickens things up turning this Cock-a-Leekie into a main dish, the soft tangle of leeks anchoring tender slices of cream-slicked chicken breast slices. The baby carrots with their sprigs of tops add homey authenticity. The slices of white meat napped with heavy cream signal indulgence, though truth be told the cream floater is an optical illusion. Dense and complex, satisfyingly thick, this Cock-a-Leekie will still pass the test of the food police's fat patrol.
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What makes it so good? Every bit of chicken flavor stays in the dish because whatever leaches out in the simmering is subsequently absorbed by the vegetables. Leeks are the unsung hero of the alum family, deliciously sweet and welcome in just about any scenario (save raw). Sweet prunes add the unexpected contrast that's the hallmark of delicious recipes.
So make a big ol' batch of Cock-a-Leekie on one of these still cool spring Sundays, as we did recently in the misty quiet of March in East Hampton.
Click here for the recipe for Cock-a-Leekie