Everyone and son frère has a tale about their first time in France when they tasted (fill in the blank) for the first time. Cue the deep swoon, the rapturous smile and fluttering eyelids that accompany the revelation that every meal before that moment had been a complete and utter sham.
My moment came with this recipe for Choucroute Garni. An ethereally fragrant Parisian croissant from an early morning street cart was my first such moment. But that was just a warm-up. I was dealt an even more staggering blow in the form of a steaming heap of Choucroute Garni. It's possible I'd never even had sauerkraut before, and certainly nothing like that small mountain of juniper and garlic infused cabbage piled over sausages and smoked meats.
To complete the cliché it was also from a street cart in the grand Parc du Champs de Mars, in what would have been the shadow of the Eiffel Tower had it not been a drizzly December day. Bonus points for being young (early Mitterrand administration) and penurious (street carts), right?
For the heck of it, let's add a soundtrack. Not surprisingly Buddy Holly is big in France, what with his whole Pionnier du Rock, geek chic and early tragic death thing going on. Type his "I Never Knew What Love Was Like" into Spotify when you sit down to this regal platter of Choucroute Rouge, or more descriptively, this recipe for Red Choucroute Garni with Duck and Sausages.
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This hearty dish is pretty much perfection on a platter. Mixing shredded cabbage and apples with the sauerkraut is one of the secrets to success. Don't think that this is some kind of cop out. The mixture is no less sauerkraut-y; raw sauerkraut is not a flavor that can be suppressed. The crisp fresh cabbage and apples are simmered into submission, enhancing the flavor without masking any of the funky goodness of the fermented cabbage base.
You need a good amount of flavorful fat to get things started. The skin of boneless duck breast is scored and cooked just on that side, so the fat renders out yet the meat stays rosy and rare.
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