Is it just me or do snails seem to be crawling their way back onto menus lately? Then again, since snagging these old-timey escargot crocks I have been on the lookout for the tasty crawlers.
Discovered at East Hampton's Ladies' Village Improvement Society's thrift shop, these stoneware bake 'n' serve snail dishes were $1 a pop. They'd never been used, evidenced by the pristine Made in France stickers still stuck on the bottoms. As there were only 11 I imagine that when one broke (oops…) the owner finally had reason enough to unload them. Lucky me!
So here's the deal on the Tradition with a Twist recipe. I was dining at an outpost of Daniel Boulud's empire recently and thought if DB didn't do right by escargots, then really, who would?
Boulud's escargots were all that one could hope for and more. Bubbling hot, garlic announcing itself as it approached the table, the chewy snails maintaining the integrity of their earthy birthright. And then — something else. A blob of mellow sweetness was nestled in the depths of the buttery cauldrons. Nothing major, just enough to be noticed, a grace note of dulcet flavor.
So what's up with that? Turns out it was a dab of tomato marmalade. Perfection.
As I've never made tomato marmalade nor been the recipient of a jar, I dug around the larder to find a stand in. Real jelly or jam seemed like a bad idea, too sweet. Then I turned up a jar of my Strawberry Marmite concoction. The long, slow cooking of the fruit and the meager amount of sugar employed (by jelly and jam standards at least) turned out to do the trick very nicely.
My next go-to would have been a nugget of mild chutney. That's a lot easier to get your hands on and I'm sure it will do nicely.
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As you can see the canned snails were Achatines, the type with pointy rather than rounded shells.
Oscar Wilde said, "I like my food dead. Not sick, not dying, dead." Good advice when it comes to escargots. Long ago (the '60s) and far away (Poughkeepsie) my mother and her culinary cohort Mary Rita Richcreek survived an evening of mayhem when their live snails escaped the pot and high tailed it up the kitchen walls. True story.
Also, preparing live snails involves an elaborate process of starving them for a few days to de-toxify them. If we ever get overrun in the garden I'll be game for going the live route but until then canned is fine with me. Besides, they're from France. What could be bad?
A final word: I made little high-hats out of puff pastry to top the snails. Rounds of toasted white bread are also wonderful. Your call.
Click here for the recipe for Escargots: Tradition with a Twist.