This recipe for Sagaponack blue crab sauce reminds me of summer trips to the beach growing up. For as long as I can remember, growing up we always headed to the beach every summer. From Prince Edward Island's surprisingly warm waters (wow, the Gulf Stream works!) down to our grandparent's home in Jupiter, Florida, we decamped in rented cottages and sometimes just plain camped out all along the Atlantic. Maine, Block Island, Ocean City, Virginia Beach. We learned to clam off the shallow shores of Chincoteague Island. No clam rakes back then, it was strictly a "Use your toes boys, just twist them down 'til you feel something hard! That's it, dig, dig!" No sighting of the famous ponies either but I do think we thrilled at spotting horsy droppings.
One summer at Myrtle Beach, SC, we shared a cottage with our Uncle Bill and his family. It was glamorous Aunt Pickett who taught us to catch crabs. A fascinating creature, I'll never forget the time she gave us a startling illustration of the dangers of smoking. 
Turning around from the front seat of their convertible, her formidable red beehive hairdo securely battened down beneath a bright aqua scarf, she took a smooth, long drag on her mentholated cigarette. Holding a Kleenex to her pursed lips, she blew a steady stream of cool smoke. Then she held up exhibit A: the pristine white tissue had grown a nauseating brown stain in the center. Happy with our horrified faces, she gave a wise, knowing look and leisurely finished her smoke.
But what matters most here is her tutelage on how to catch Maryland Blue Crabs. First you get a package of chicken parts, necks or gizzards if you can, but wings and drumsticks work well too. Leave them in their cellophane wrapped tray out in the hot summer sun for the day. Don't bring the package in at night, but make sure it's out of reach of pets and other critters.
The next day get yourself a nice fishing net, a ball of twine and a big plastic tub. Pickett took us to a dock on the bay and tied a stinky piece of chicken to 10' lengths of twine for each of us kids. We swung the rotting meat like a lariat and let it fly out into the water. Slowly we pulled in the string, inch by inch. It's amazing how soon crabs latch onto the bait. If there's any trick to it, it's just to keep pulling at a consistent, slow pace. The crabs hold on with one claw while picking at the bait with the other, even as you lift them out of the water. Net 'em, toss 'em into the tub and repeat.
What ever your end game is be sure to get plenty because they don't have a lot of meat and they're so delicious it' impossible to have too many.
Back at the cottage, Pickett boiled the crabs and picked them clean over the sink, eyes squinted from the cigarette dangling from her lips. Fingers flashing, she made fast work of the chore, and turned out a platter of crab cakes lickety split.
Pickett's crab picking skills must have ranked among the finest — it's not a chore I've ever really enjoyed. So a few weeks ago, in the ominous grey day before the expected arrival of Hurricane Irene, Steve and I stunk up some chicken gizzards and headed over to the bridge over Sagaponack Pond. With spritzes of rain blowing across us every couple of minutes, I ran three lines at once and soon had two dozen crabs.
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Here's where things get interesting. Edward Giobbi first published his cook-the-crabs-in-the-sauce recipe in 1971. In 2005, with daughter Eugena (a.k.a. Gena Bone, a familiar presence here at S.D.) they updated their recipe for Linguini with Blue Crab sauce in their collaborative cookbook Italian Family Dining.
Their recipe calls for six live crabs; I had two dozen fighters in my bucket. So some liberties needed to be taken, and then a few more liberties were incorporated too, just because. A food mill is essential for my version.
The pictures show crabbing at the bridge in Sagaponack, the catch, cleaing the crabs and running the pieces through the food mill (instructions in the recipe) and the final dish of Sagaponack Blue Crab Sauce over Linguini.
Click here to get your own copy of Italian Family Dining: Recipes, Menus, and Memories of Meals with a Great American Food Family with their recipe for Linguini with Blue Crab Sauce.
Click her for the recipe for Sagaponack Blue Crab Sauce based on the original Giobbi recipe.