My Chicken Kiev Recipe is a rumination of the classic, kitschy delicacy as it might have been served at the grandest tables of 1930s Pasadena, where well-dressed Haute Society gathered after a day of the men playing polo down at the club, as the wives watching bemoaning the troubles of securing appropriately subservient servants. Well-dressed and self-satisfied, a good Chicken Kiev would be fare considered their due.
Now for those not familiar with Mildred Pierce, the classic 1945 film which won Joan Crawford her only Oscar in a indelible portrait of love and betrayal, here's a very abbreviated synopsis.
Single mother Mildred, enslaved by a love too deep, too all-consuming for her daughter Veda, spares nothing in her tireless efforts to provide her first born with all the advantages she herself was denied. Veda, presumably nursed on the sweetest mother's milk, might just as well suckled at the teat of Satan. From her earliest days she saw a better, brighter world beyond the "shack with its cheap furniture and her mother, a common frump whose father lived over a hardware store and whose mother took in washing."
Veda was her father's daughter. Burt Pierce may have deserted his family for the ample comforts of Maggie Beiderhoff, but his was the lineage with which Veda identified. While the Pierce family may had fallen on hard times, their once extensive land holdings validated Veda's assessment that Father's family was better. And she too was destined for things greater than dreary Glendale.
To win Veda's love, Mildred's relentless drive creates a highly profitable chain of fried chicken and waffle restaurants. Steel-hard determination and a generosity with her well-formed figure (a precursor to today's MILF), Mildred's chickens and pies and "everything that smells of grease" afford the ungrateful Veda the clothes, cars and furs she feels her rightful due. Mildred's money also indulge her opportunistic, fallen-on-hard times playboy paramour Monte Beragon, allowing him to continue the blue-blood style to which he's accustomed.
Veda easily slithers her way into the louche Pasadena set. But her shame of Mildred's fried chickens can never be extinguished, with terrible, tragic, tearful results.
And then — my epiphany. It's a quite a leap leap from eking out subsistence existence baking cakes for the neighbors to becoming to successful business woman. If only Mildred had been able to leap just a little further. Fried chicken and waffles might satisfy the dollar-day hoi polloi. If only Mildred had Veda's gift for distinguishing the subtle cues that society recognized as the marks of one of their own, Mildred might too have climbed into the elite.
Chicken Kiev, fried yet noble, and delicate blini rather than lowly waffles could well have been Mildred's ticket out. Topped with eggplant caviar, what a hoot! Of course everyone would adore it b/c it's so droll to be slumming and eating like peasants, too terribly droll, but in fact the pairing is wonderful. And the Beragon/tarragon rhyme would be so cute and clever of cook, just what you'd expect from charming, playful Monte.
Original book aside (a masterpiece) here's where I net out on the original MP versus the new HBO version:
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Undisputable best: Original. Need proof? Watch the infamous Veda and Mildred fight here.
But there are lots of things to love about the new version: 1.) Mildred gets her sexy on though not as full on slut as in the book. 2. Guy Pierce as Monte. Sorry Zachary Scott, from any angle, at the depths of desperation, you will always remain one of the least appealing supposedly sexy actors of all time. 3.) Young Veda gets much more screen time to lay on the disdain. Bonus points: In the new version, Lottie is white trash vs. Butterfly McQueen in the original, and Veda not only makes her wear Mildred's waitress uniform at home, she makes her wear it to the pool, carrying her swimsuit walking two paces behind.
Anyway, if you're going to fry Chicken Kiev or anything for that matter, get yourself one of these Oxo Good Grips Splatter Screen with Folding Handle. You're welcome.
Click here for Chicken Kiev Beragon recipe.
