Duck breast is irresistible simply seared and served rare. And it's also so delicious as a luxuriously rich and hearty ragu partnered with chewy, rustic pasta. If a fair world, one wouldn't have to choose. Hence I took it upon myself to unite these glories in this recipe for Duck Two Ways, where rare meets ragu.
Getting started, the technique from Duck Breast Julie Anne was employed, eliminates a nice amount of the fat. Now don't get the wrong idea, Duck Two Ways makes no claim for "healthy" categorization. If fat calories give you the heebie-jeebies you'll be on thin ice here. Still, Liberace wasn't always right. Sometimes too much of a good thing isn't wonderful (duck fat, Scott Thorson). Just greasy. So a reduction in the amount of duck fat is achieved, but not a total elimination.
The Moulard breast halves we get are usually a pound or so. I'd like to see one of these creatures before their date with the chopping block, since all the whole ducks I've gotten only provided a fraction of breast meat that D'Artagnan's breast provide. In fairness, the whole birds from the butchers (not D'Artagnan) are sold as duckling. While we're on the topic of size, game birds are even smaller than their farm-raised counterparts. If you are lucky enough to have hunting pals willing to share their bounty these wild ones are put to better use in California Duck Burritos. Still, any duck sporting two pounds of breast must be a veritable avian Jane Mansfield.
I've been on a pasta kick of late, starting with the most-delicious-pasta-ever-bar-none served at Marea courtesy of Chef Michael White. (Cue the howls of protest and disagreement.) Yes, his sauces are sublime, but the under pining pastas are just as remarkably toothsome. His familiar shapes of orecchiette, rigatoni and spaghetti and lesser-know cicatelli, ferratini and gramigna each have delicious integrity on their own — not just pretty background canvases upon which the dazzling sauces are painted.
White's way with pasta making has proven revelatory to this reformed Philistine. I had to let go of my long standing belief that all pasta fell into one of three categories: "lousy" (usually cheap); "good" (usually imported), and "better" (often but not always hand made). Loving hands at home are no guarantee of greatness and even some of the high-profile imports are only "good," sometimes worse. Am I right? It's too late to make this long story short; so suffice it to say I now herald the recognition of truly "great" pastas.
After the success of Ciprianni's tagliolini in the Paglia e Fieno, I ventured onto new turf with a costly acquisition of hand-crafted Italian farro pasta. The package referenced Romans and a 5,000 year history. Again, about a dollar an ounce.
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My take on this Rustichella Farro Pizzichi: your appreciation of the taste and texture of whole wheat pasta is a pretty reliable prediction of your enjoyment of farro versions. I'm just sayin'.
Pasta machines. Some might think I've succumbed to every gadget and fad over the years. For the record, I've never owned or desired a bread machine. But how I resisted the pasta maker craze is a mystery. Dead set on making up for lost time, I'm doing my research in advance of the big purchase. The influence of drying times and techniques, achieving the right amount of raspiness on the pasta's surface, the wheat and water and eggs used — fascinating.
Back to the recipe for Duck Two Ways. A big fat breast is pan-seared 'til crisp yet still rosy rare in the center. Set aside a little slab of rare and tease out all the gamey goodness from the larger portion of meat via slow simmering for a densely flavored ragu.
The grand finale: Unite the rare and the ragu meet over "better" or if you can, "great" pasta.
Delicious duck, rare and ragu, together again for the very first time in this recipe for Duck Two Ways.