Everyone's been doing the Stonehenge slab of steak thing for a while now*. We all likes us some meat! Roast it, grill it; braised, browned, boiled or even a bit burned is just dandy as long as it's deeply flavored, juicy red, hot and plentiful. Still, the collective quest for the new and the best rages unchecked as well. I believe it's hard to go wrong looking ahead with one eye fixed on the rear-view mirror. Revive some of the glories from back in the day. It just feels like the time's right for a good old Beef Wellington recipe to make a comeback.
Signals are popping up all around. Over the holidays a bunch of friends had a festive dinner at Harry's Cafe, a Ye Olde New York snuggery if ever there was one in the basement of the 1850's India House on Hanover Square. When the building went up it was right at the water's edge; now you've navigate across Water, Front and South Streets before you hit the harbor. Anyway, the night we were there was a "Beef Wellington Wednesday." Must be good stuff because the BWs were 86'ed by the time we were seated.
And then that very tasty-looking recipe in Tyler Florence's new book caught my eye. Google and Bing concur — there's a whole lot of Wellington going on. Filet topped with liver pâté and mushrooms duxelles, encased in puff pastry. What could be bad?
The trick to keeping things straight is an under-wrap beneath the puff pastry. Nowadays recipes are calling for prosciutto wraps as the Tyvek for these new constructions. I went old-school and used the crêpe method. I don't like bacon on my hamburgers so didn't think I needed ham on my steak.
A nice Christmas gift of white truffle oil and truffled salt enhanced the proceedings. Yes, okay, I know the truffle oil haters are out there. Don't let them scare you. If they dis you, kindly ask for a few shavings of their truffles so you won't have to resort to the bottled stuff. See what happens then.
So what do we have here? Individual filets mignon quickly seared, topped with black-truffle studded liver pâté and mushrooms reduced to an earthy, wet crumble. Cue the truffled oil and salt, encase in pastry. Into the oven to inflate and crisp, while improvising a little sauce if you feel like it. I made a shiitake/shallot/beef stock/butter/red wine/cream concoction but truth be told, it was nice enough but perhaps superfuous. And there you have it.
You have it two ways in fact: your carnivorous cravings sated with the requisite hunka-hunka juicy steak neatly resting inside an elegantly elaborate bunker of hoity-toity savories and buttery, flakey pastry.
And now I'd like to thank my last stand of lemon thyme, the final soldier to fall in this past summer's herb army. Farewell my friend, what a glorious note to go out on.
Click here for the Spectacularly Delicious recipe for Beef Wellington.
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*Except of course all the vegetarians, vegans and that unknown portion of the population who consider themselves consumers of a "healthy" diet.