Though Sullivans, Kellys and Brennans make up the bigger branches of my family tree, higher up you'll find some fine German stock, Ludwigs and Zapps, and a venerable French-Canadian line, the Labbees. So in honor of my great grandmother Martha Kelly (nee Ludwig), this rendition of sauerbraten Lugwig with spinach spaetzle goes out to her.
Martha lived with my mother's family so I figure that's how sauerbraten entered regular rotation in our dinner repertoire. Because it didn't appear as often as say, corned beef and cabbage, this tangy, glorified pot roast was all the more special for it. Plus it had a built-in anticipation mechanism. As it marinated, think how many times a day the refrigerator was opened by five hungry boys, then multiply that by four days. Like Rome, sauerbraten isn't built in a day.
Round out your sauerbraten feast with spinach spaetzle in brown butter (recipe below, and check out this video demonstrating a spaetzle maker). Braised purple cabbage with apples is very nice. Add a couple tablespoons of vinegar to keep the color bright.
SAUERBRATEN LUDWIG
MARINADE INGREDIENTS:
3 medium sized onions, sliced
3 medium sized carrots, sliced
2 1/2 c. dry red wine
1 c. water
1 c. red wine vinegar
2 celery stalks, sliced
1 Tablespoon each: whole allspice, black peppercorns, mustard seeds, juniper berries, dill seed, fennel seeds, coriander seeds
2 bay leaves
1/2 t. ground cloves
1/2 t. ground ginger
1 t. red pepper flakes
5 lb. beef bottom round roast, tied
2 T. butter
2 T. cooking oil
ROASTING/SAUCE INGREDIENTS
3 T. butter
2 c. diced carrots
2 c. diced onions
1 c. diced celery
2 T. flour
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8 Zwieback cookies, crumbled
1/4 t. ground ginger
Combine all the marinade ingredients (everything except the roast, butter and oil) and bring to a boil. Remove from heat and let cool.
Place the beef in a deep, non-reactive (glass or ceramic) bowl or casserole just large enough to hold it. Pour the marinade over the beef. The marinade should be at least halfway up the side of the roast. If necessary add more wine and vinegar, in equal proportions. Cover tightly and refrigerate for three to four days, turning the meat in the marinade twice a day.
Remove meat from marinade, pat dry with paper towels, brushing off any of the spices adhering to the meet. Strain the marinade, discarding the vegetables and spices. Reserve the liquid.
In a heavy dutch oven heat the butter and oil. Brown the meat well on all sides. Transfer meat to a platter. Add the carrots, onions and celery and saute in the dutch oven, scraping up the browned bits sticking to the pot. After they start to soften (8-10 minutes) add the flour and cook another 3 minutes, stirring all the while. Pour in 2 cups of the reserved marinade liquid with 1/2 cup of water. Bring to a boil over high heat. Return the meat to the pot, nestle it down in the liquid and vegetables, cover and place in a preheated 350 degree oven.
Cook for 1 hour, then turn the roast over, and cook for another 1 – 1 1/2 hours.
Remove pot from oven, remove meat from pot and place on a platter, tightly covered in foil. Pour all the cooking liquid in a bowl or large measuring cup, let the fat rise to the top, skim it off and discard. Work the liquid and the vegetables through a food mill back into the cooking pots. Add any remaining marinade to bring the sauce to 4 cups. Bring to a hearty boil, stirring. Add the Zwieback crumbs and the ginger. Salt and pepper to taste.
Slice the roast into nice serving pieces, and lay them back into the hot sauce. Make sure the sauce goes under and over each piece. Serve immediately, or cover the pot and return to a medium oven (200 degrees) to hold until serving, up to 2 hours. Serve the meat slices with plenty of sauce.
VIEW SAUERBRATEN RECIPE FOR PRINTING
SPINACH SPAETZLE
1 10 oz. package frozen spinach, thawed and squeezed dry
4 eggs
2/3 c. water
4 c. flour
1/4 t. ground nutmeg
salt
4 T. butter
Bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil.
In a large bowl, use a fork to mix the eggs, water, nutmeg and 1 t. salt well. Mix in the spinach, breaking up any clumps. Mix in the flour. The mixture will be thick though you still want it loose enough to drip off a wooden spoon. Add water a little at a time to reach desired consistency.
Affix a spaetzle sieve to the pot over the boiling water, and working quickly, run the mixture through (see video of spaetzle maker). Boil the spaetzle for 3 minutes, until all of the little squiggles are floating. Drain in a colander and rinse briefly with cold water to prevent sticking.
In a large skillet, heat the butter until it just begins to brown. Add the spaetzle and continue to cook. Cook and stir until it's heated through. It's okay if if the spaetzle start to brown a little. Salt and pepper to taste and you're good to go!
VIEW RECIPE OF SPINACH SPAETZLE FOR PRINTING