Histories of olde New York tell how our waterways were originally paved with oyster reefs, from Sandy Hook all the way up to Ossining. So common, they were considered poor people's food (as were lobsters out on the east end of Long Island back in the day…). In our time honored fashion, this abundant resource was pretty much depleted by the early 1900s, and in 1924 laws were passed prohibiting taking any remaining oysters in New York harbor due to contamination. But the damage was already done, the vast oyster reefs are no more.
On the bright side, sustained efforts have greatly improved the local water quality. The state Department of Environmental Conservation says it's okay to swim in the river and even eat your fishing catch — in moderation, and not pregnant women, but still. Oysters are being reintroduced too, though for the foreseeable future only for their formidable filtering ability, not for consumption.
So oysters remain in the "treat" category, vs. "staple." Fresh and icy cold on the half shell is the purest pleasure, though so fleeting. Hence the numerous preparations to extend their goodness: bisques, pan roasts, fried, Rockefeller.
What this recipe lacks in beauty, it makes up in flavor. Chinese oyster sauce rachets up the mineral-flavored notes while the fermented black beans add depth to the saltiness.
A true oyster knife is key — tools billed as combo clam/oyster openers are equally poor at opening either. The best are the simple wood handled ones, available around here in seafood shops and hardware stores. A couple of other things that come in handy for this are a zester (Microplane is wonderful), a ginger peeler (so much less waste than trimming the roots with a knife), and a ginger grater.
Work quickly so these babies are just barely cooked through and you'll have one hearty, satisfying hot Chinese mess of oysters. Get shucking!
Oysters with Oyster Sauce and Black Beans
1 1/2 c. shucked oysters, drained, liquor reserved
1 red bell pepper, julienned
1 yellow bell pepper, julienned
1 1/2 T. Chinese fermented black beans
3 T. dry sherry
1/2 t. sugar
1 t. soy sauce
1 T. Chinese oyster sauce
1 T. grated lemon rind
2 t. peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
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1/4 t. hot red pepper flakes
1 T. cornstarch
2 T. cooking oil
Chopped cilantro for garnish
Serve with freshly cooked basmati rice
Blend black beans with 1 T. sherry, let stand 15 minutes. Add sugar, soy sauce, oyster sauce, and 2 T. of the oyster liquor, set aside.
Combine the lemon rind, ginger, red pepper flakes and garlic, set aside.
Blend remaining 2 T. sherry with the cornstarch, set aside.
Heat oil in wok or skillet, add peppers and ginger mixture, cook, stirring, 2 minutes.
Add black bean mixture, bring to boil, keep stirring.
Add oysters, cook briefly, until just heated through and oysters begin to curl at the edges.
Add cornstarch mixture, cook as briefly as possible, just 'til sauce thickens and clings to oysters.
Serve over hot rice. Garnish with chopped cilantro.
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