[1]Flavored and specialty salts have been infiltrating the larder here for some time now. So much so that an inventory was in order.
Here’s what we found:
SPANISH ROSEMARY SALT (The Filling Station [2]) Nice rosemary aroma, nice rosemary taste, pleasing loose grain. ♦♦
[3]
MERLOT SALT (The Filling Station [4]) Great color, but a little weak on the flavor follow-through. You get traces of wine in naked tasting but nothing very discernible when sprinkled on food. This one is a keeper for the color and name – looks nice, sounds nice, nice enough to have on hand. ♦
[5]
HIMALAYAN PINK (Artisan Salt Company [6]) The rock salt of cooking. Popular because it’s pretty and exotic. Crunchy in a hard, gravely way, too much so for a casual sprinkle. The coarseness could be tamed by a salt mill but that takes away the color. Best for the spotlight, like chocolate caramel cake [7] and cultured butter [8]. When you need something like this nothing else will do as nicely. ♦♦
(It’s so popular that we have no less than 4 jars — a comforting thought given the brutally cold and icy winter we’ve had.)
[9]CYPRUS FLAKE (The Filling Station [10]): You can stop reading now if you’d like because this is, hands down, the best salt we’ve ever tasted. Pristine white color and the salt taste is nicely dispersed by the delicate, crystallized flakes. Fine for cooking but the its real glory shines through when dusted on food – salads, stews, meat, bread and butter. ♦♦♦
[11]GREEK FLEUR DE SEL SALT (from Patras, Greece) This is a pleasant enough sea salt. Softer than Diamond and Morton brand kosher salts. The small container I have, of unknown origin but most likely from a gourmet gift basket, is fine to keep by the stove for cooking. ♦
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WHITE TRUFFLE SALT (Oliviers & Co. [17]) Like most white truffle condiments, i.e. olive oil, pasta, butter, this salt is a disappointment. Although “freeze-dried white truffles” are listed in the ingredients and there are tiny dark flecks of something other than salt, there is no truffle aroma or taste. Plus it’s kind of sticky. Not recommended.
[18]SMOKED SALT (Goumanyat et son Royaume [19]): When next you get to Paris high-tail it over to Goumanyat et Fils. A charming boutique full of the world’s most splendid spices displayed as only the French can do. Their motto is A la Recherche du Goût Perdu.
This slightly browned Sel Saveur Fumee has a heady, smokey aroma and taste. Yummy on grilled meat and fish. Distinctive and desirable though best used only deliberately. ♦♦♦
[20]SAFFRON SALT (Goumanyat et son Royaume [19]) – Goumanyat’s Sel Fin de Guerande au Safran delivers the goods. Fragrant and flavorful, the voila! finish for paella, risotto and the like. ♦♦
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AMAGANSETT SEA SALT: (Amagansett Sea Salt [22]) Bright, white and clean this home town favorite (from the East Hampton hamlet Amagansett) is breezy and delightful. Loose, distinct crystals are sun-evaporated in open air (not a greenhouse) and taste of the briny depths of the North Atlantic. The most minerally flavored of those tasted with a delicate crunch. Local, artisanal, very good. ♦♦