[1]The big Fourth of July block parties in Webster Groves' Park neighborhood featured many spectacular meals: the 300 lb. roast pig, the 10' foot pizza (true, with St. Louis Post Dispatch newspaper coverage to prove it), outdoor deep fat fryers bubbling away all afternoon while Gerry Rust churned out flocks of crispy fried chicken for the annual gathering of our 50 or so neighbors.
Hand cranked ice cream was always on the menu, like this peaches and honey ice cream [2]. This was back in the day of old-school preparation, unchanged since the days of the great 1904 St. Louis World's Fair, where the waffle cone was invented, thank you very much. Hand cranked with rock salt and ice. Some salt always made its way into the ice cream, deliciously prefiguring the current craze for salted sweets.
[3]Peach was my favorite then and is a favorite to this very day. As the good the people of Häagen Dazs and Breyers produce perfectly delicious, grab and go pints and quarts, it seemed silly to try to improve on the basic recipe.
So how to up the ante? Get in on the chic of grilled fruit, that's how. Tree-ripened peach halves are grilled with some brown sugar in the indentations from the pits to sizzle, caramelize and add an extra layer of sweetness along with the honey.
[4]I like the charred bits when the fruit is served with grilled meats or what not. However too many bits of black might visually blight the ice cream, so here you scrape off some of the very well done spots on the surface of the fruit.
The rest is one, two, three, presto! A delicious ice cream that you can't buy in any store. And that's the only reason to make your own ice cream.
I don't think Madonna was referring to ice cream when she sang Express Yourself but it's extremely applicable for home made ice creamists.
This is a very sweet ice cream (just the way I like it) so a simple sauce of the peaches not used in the ice cream itself is clever role reversal — usually toppings are sweeter than the ice cream. These coupes were were topped with grilled fruit sauce and few candied rose petals tossed on top for sugary crunch.
If you want an even sweeter ice cream cook the honey first into a brickle as done in the recipe for Fat Elvis Ice Cream [5].
GRILLED PEACHES AND HONEY ICE CREAM
3 ripe peaches, halved, pits removed, skins still on
brown sugar
2 c. heavy cream
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1 c. honey
1/2 t. vanilla
Heat up your grill to a medium (which I consider to be 350º since the thermometer goes up to 600º, which we call the Peter Luger point). Oil the grate and place the peach halves cut side down and grill for 5 minutes or so, keeping an eye on things so they don't incinerate.
Turn them over and put 1/2 t. of brown sugar into the hole where the pits were, close the cover and cook for 5 minutes more,. The skins will bear the brunt of the heat so if these sides char, worry not because the skins are being discarded soon.
Remove from heat, careful to save the juicy brown sugar filling the pit holes by tipping them into a mixing bowl while you let the fruit cool.
When completely cool, scrape of any unsightly black blisters on the cut sides of the fruit. I like the taste, but I like burnt toast too, so in consideration of your audience, remove as much of the blackened bits as you think fit.
Remove the skin from the peach halves, cut into pieces the size you want to appear in the ice cream. Not too big, not too small, just right. Measure out 1 1/2 c. of peach pieces and get them good and cold with a 30 minute rest in the freezer. Be careful not to freeze rock hard because then you'll have to thaw it all out, break it up and who wants to bother with that?
Liquefy the remain grilled peaches and refrigerate. Use it for sauce for the ice cream or if you have a better idea, go right ahead.
Into the ice cream maker (I can't praise my Cuisinart Ice Cream Maker [10] highly enough) place the cream, milk, vanilla and reserved brown sugar/peach juice mixture. Turn the machine on and churn away for 25 minutes. When things are almost done, trickle in the honey. Adding the honey at the outset will result in one big blob of hardened honey. Not good.
During the last 2-3 minutes, add the very cold peach pieces and churn just until they are evenly distributed. Things will be big, thick and creamy. Enjoy it now at this soft-serve consistency or of firm things up in the freezer.